The Last Night of LudoBites 4.0: It didn’t Bite, It Ruled

8 Jun
Friday, the 28th, was the last night of LudoBites 4.0. I don’t say this mildly, Ludo is without question the most interesting and exciting thing in the LA food scene. He dominates the Twitterazzi and has been written about and seen everywhere. The establishments like LA Times has made him a cover-story, my idol Ruth Reichl has given him a nod, and the food renegade The J Gold just can’t get enough, girls melt for him as a Top Chef Master contestant and all of LA loves their Ludo. We can talk about what makes him so appealing: the tattoos, the French accent, the fact that you make your reservations via Twitter but really what makes Ludo phenomenal is his imagination. The purpose of this new Mission Fruition project for me is to reach the elusive foodgasm and as we all know that is impossible without some foreplay. The key to foreplay is playing hard to get and LudoBites rules at this. His most awesome wife handles reservation via Twitter and they are booked within hours. As you probably know I am in the process of moving to SF so these last few weeks have been hitting up some famous LA spots that I have never tried. In the week of seeing Ludo I went to Animal and XIV, I am sorry waistline and wallet. A few Fridays ago was going to be a mellow eating day and then I was going to go crazy on Minty’s Gays and Dolls crawl in EaHoLA (my made up neighborhood name for Los Feliz/Silverlake). All I had was lentil soup for breakfast and was walking in to Mi Piace for a glass of wine and pizza with the Baron (yup, his family has Baron status and owns 80% of the Kosher wine market) when I got a DM on Twitter Kevin Eats saying he had an open spot at LudoBites at 6p. It was 2p then and I was well aware that it was the final Ludo night. The following day I was heading up north to SF to go apartment hunting and I knew this was an opportunity not to be missed. I responded “yes” with no hesitation and when he wrote back saying that we would be ordering the entire menu my order at this late lunch went from pizza to a side salad. I was beyond excited and moved around my whole schedule. Took a shower and rushed over to Gram and Papa’s for Ludo Bites. I was in such a fluster that I didn’t realize til Chinatown that I didn’t think of bringing a bottle of wine and of course Ludo is so cool and underground it is BYOB. I looked at the time and realized I should arrive first and think about walking across the street to get wine later. Gram and Papa’s isn’t in the best part of downtown and I was in a booty clinging skirt for the gay bars later but not appropriate for this hood. I was rattled, excited, nervous, and unsure of what this totally unplanned night held.

My table mates were already seated and there were 4 bottles of wine welcoming me. There were 5 of us, Kevin Eats, Epicuryan, Cookie Chomper, Food, Je T’Aime, and myself. They were wine armed and camera armed and I felt safe and able to relax. The first thing that was presented to us was a warm baguette. Everyone shot away and when it was my turn to snap, I said I had no interest in photographing bread and the table reminded me that this was Ludo Bread with Honey Lavender Butter and Smoked Lard. This was the last MF’n night of Ludo Bites 4.0 I better take pictures.

A few sips of wine later and the actualization that I was at the last night of LudoBites and probably wouldn’t be in LA for all of the future stints and I was happy. I let the plates be brought out and put in front of me. This was the lying there phase and it was fantastic. The food was gorgeous. And we didn’t even have to take time to think and order, we simply had it all coming to us. We got 11 appetizers, 5 main courses, and 2 desserts. Brace yourself. First up, was the Dorade Ceviche, Heirloom Tomato, Spring Onions, Lemon Honey Paste. This dish was, unfortunately, prettier than it was tasty. It probably would have worked better with more acid but dorade isn’t the tastiest of fish.

The next dish up had the texture of the most heavenly of dishes, it was cloud-like and delicious. I am not a huge fan of soft cheese, I like my cheese like I like my men. However, this cheese took brie to the next level and it is was as high as the sky. The Brie Chantilly, Honey Comb, Balsamic went together so fantastically. As mentioned, I have been dining very well lately and I have seen fresh honeycomb everywhere but it is almost always paired with blue cheese. Let me tell you, it goes so much better with this whipped brie.

Santa Barbara Prawn, Avocado, Passion Fruit, Cocktail Sauce was probably my least favorite of all of the dishes, but that was just based on my own personal food discrimination. I am neither a fan of cold shrimp or avocados. This dish started showing the Ludo creativity that I love but why did it have to be frozen avocado shavings? Every time I see my mom she always asks me, “have you finally come to your senses, do you NOW like avocado? Sadly the answer is no, but let’s just say that I loved the Corona granita that came a bit later.

Marinated King Salmon, Red Wine Vinaigrette, Crème Fraiche was the absolute prettiest dish. I snapped this one endlessly and I think it was around this time that our table got reprimanded by the chef and we were caught on TwitPic where a 1,000 people caught us in the act. Sorry Chef Ludo, but this dish was like the most beautiful watercolor and you were the artist. If I had to name the biggest food crime, it would be cooked salmon. Ludo gave this to me just how I like it: raw, pickled, and with cream. Oops sorry, I forgot, I am trying to no longer be uncouth.

Veal Tartar, Oysters, Almond Oil, Seaweed, Tonnato Sauce was a heavy dish with strong ocean tastes. One of the people at the the table didn’t get any veal in her bite and was unable to identify which menu item this was. I liked the veal tartar very much but it really played back up to the strong oyster and tonnato flavors.

The next dish up bothered some people at my table because it came across as a kind of fusion sushi that you would see done at a Wokano or something of the sort. It is not that big of a stretch because it was in a cone and because the words “spicy mayo” were used on the menu. However, Ludo’s Crispy Soft Shell Crab Cone, Spicy Mayo, Mango, Corona Granite dish was anything but amateur. This is where you see the true imagination of Ludo’s food. It is childlike but oh so sophisticated. The cold component is outside the cone and it has that perfect refreshing Corona taste. The cone was made of regular and black sesame seeds and filled with a fried soft shelled crab and the topping that you may expect on your cone was mango. I loved this dish. I was one of the few at the table who was at LudoBites 4.0 for the first time but apparently those numbers kept track of how many were served. Some of the people that went to the opening of LB 4.0 got single digits. On this closing night, I got lucky number 327! C’mon guy, we can talk numbers, we all shared the same dish….what number were you?

Foie Gras, Green Cabbage, Kimchi Consomme, Pickled Turnips, Sesame Oil Alright folks, I don’t want to blow my load too early but this was the dish. I only took one picture and giggled about how ugly it looked on my camera screen. But as any serious dater or eater knows, looks are deceiving. I will say that I did read earlier that day in The J Gold’s review that he loved this dish but the word kimchi in the title just made me shrug. I took a bite and knew that this dish was perfection. This was a perfect marriage between my culture, my palate, and my gourmand-ness. I have not really written very much yet about my dining companions but the one that invited me was Kevin Eats, who is probably best known for his infamous piece entitled, “Why are there so many Asian food bloggers?” Truth be said, if you like it or not that question comes up all the time, especially when I introduce people to this small incestuous little community. It is a reasonable question and at our table of 5 I was the only non-Asian and those are similar percentages to most blogger dinners I attend. I don’t mind at all and consider myself Asian in my heart. In fact, my next comment after hearing that question posed is, “If they are not Asian, then they are probably Jewish.” Asians and Jews are very culturally similar and you can draw many parallels in Kevin’s answer to that question. In fact, I have just as many memories making Chinese dumplings with my Jewish grandmother than I do making matzoh balls with her. This brings me to why I loved this dish so much. My grandma is no longer alive and one of the dishes that she made and I loved was stuffed cabbage. I have spent numerous hours looking for the perfect recipe online but I haven’t found it yet. Another thing I love is a good wonton soup and this had the exact same taste in the broth, probably from the vinegar, cabbage, and sesame oil. So not only did I have two strong comfort foods and flavors but then Ludo took this simpler comfort food to the next level and stuffed the cabbage with foie. The next level was reached and I was in heaven. For once, a whole table filled with food bloggers agreed that this was THE dish of the night.

For an encore, I bring you another dish that is rooted in comfort but kicked up to elegant fine dining. The Foie Gras Black Croque-Monsieur, Cherry-Amaretto Chutney was something that I really wanted to have during my two times at LudoBites 2.0 but both times it was sold out. I now can clearly see why. It is reminiscent of a childhood sandwich, perhaps a peanut butter and jelly. The bread is not white, it is black and dyed with squid ink. Instead of peanut butter you had a delicious and unctuous piece of foie gras, creamier and better than any butter. Rather than a plain jam you had a cherry-amaretto chutney that complemented the foie better than peanut butter goes with jelly.

The Ham Soup, Bread, Swiss Cheese, Radish, Cornichon, Guinness was reminiscent of something I had at LudoBites 2.0. In that older Ludo pop-up I had a cornichon, cantaloupe, and chorizo soup that I wasn’t that sure about. If there is one thing that I am sure about it is that I love cornichons. In fact, during a trip to the South of France I took a glass jar of cornichons back with me in my luggage. For the love of pickles, I risked all of my belongings ruined and plagued with the smell of pickle juice. I was happy that ingredient stayed. I went from one spoonful to many more saying “give me a second” as I was trying to gather and announce all of the tastes in my mouth. Not only was it a treasure hunt for tastes it was also a treasure hunt when someone discovered that there was bread with cheese on the bottom of the soup. It was another adventure and an all around fun dish.

One of my oldest friends in LA is Filipina and I remember her telling me long ago that as a kid she loved blood sausage but she never knew what it was. She simply called it chocolate and her parents gave it to her whenever she asked for chocolate. This seemed like the oddest confusion to me but after tasting the Boudin Noir Terrine, Apple Puree, Wasabi I have a much better understanding for the confusion. It is chocolaty and nutty, the apple and wasabi were nice and made this scary black square more appealing and gentle. I had a few bites but due to its rich characteristics I probably couldn’t eat more than that. Also, unlike my friend, I didn’t grow up with the dish and I know very well exactly what it is.

Alright, now we are on to main courses. The Squid “Carbonara”, Pancetta, Poached Egg (63°), Parmesan Snow, Chive Flowers was another dish that I heard about a lot on Twitter and the blogosphere. It sounded fantastic. However, I am a girl that loves her pasta so as fun of a a surprise ingredient the squid was I really wanted something nice and starchy to curb the heaviness of the parmesan.

Another thing I read prior to going to dinner that night was an article on how to eat your way to a tan. The next dish Monkfish, Baby Carrots, Carrot-Orange Coulis, Exotic Spices must have improved my coloring with all of those carrots and oranges. The flavors were all very sweet and took away from that beautiful piece of monkfish.

The next two dishes Braised Beef Cheeks, Escargot Red Wine Butter, Leek Salad, Roasted Eggplant and Rack of Lamb, Fresh Goat Cheese, Dried Bonito, Artichokes, Potato Mousseline, Mint I didn’t pay as much attention to. Ludo was at the table then and I was getting all of the requisite shots. I heard that Ludo 5.0 would be in July and probably still be in downtown because he loves it there. I also remember saying that I wanted an entire artichoke to myself and so I selfishly grabbed that and was less interested in the meat on the plate, after all, I had a hot piece of  (*refrain*) with a French accent talking to me. I also remember eating that cube item stupidly by itself. It was a reduction of the beef au jus and black currant. It was super salty and probably paired nicely with the meat but, well, I am an idiot.

It’s all about Ludo’s Fried Chicken and damn it’s good. I first had it at the LA Street Food Fest where I was volunteering. A friend was waiting in line for hours to get a couple of those golf ball size pieces of chicken and kindly gave me one. That day was infamous for long lines and a ton of people and I can tell you that chicken has never tasted so good. After a long full dinner where I was totally satisfied and reached a mission fruition on the 5th appetizer, I can tell you that his chicken is just as good. The meat is dark and tender and the the fried batter is sprinkled with rosemary and thyme so it tastes as good as t smells. On this night, it wasn’t just the chicken the dish it was Fried Chicken, Coconut Polenta, Grilled Baby Corn, Diablo Sauce. The coconut polenta and the grilled corn gave it a nice summer tropical vibe and the diablo sauce was a nice accompaniment but I like my “LFC” as is and without sauce. Look for the Ludo Fried Chicken Truck hitting the streets of LA this summer!

There were two desserts on the menu this night. Organic Strawberry, Vanilla Whipped Cream & Lemon Verbena-Meringue and Dark Chocolate Soufflé, Vanilla Whipped Cream, Hot Chocolate Cream. While Ludo is not typically known for his desserts I thought both were quite nice. The strawberry dessert had the surprise element of poprocks and reminded me of the stereotypical girl dessert and the chocolate souffle was decedent and the boy version. While I am sure that I probably shouldn’t admit this or say it in this post about a Michelin starred chef but I thought the two dessert were as cute as McDonald’s when they ask if you want a girl or a boy toy with your Happy Meal. Yes, I occasionally want a Happy Meal with boot-shaped chicken nuggets and sweet n sour sauce (you see that Mickey D’s fried chicken needs sauce, Ludo’s does not). Anyway, I totally mean this as a compliment, the whole meal was a sophisticated culinary wonderland that brought in key elements from my childhood and my comfort spots.

All in all, this was the most fantastic dinner. I loved the food and it is sad how much of fine dining doesn’t have that imagination that LudoBites possesses. I am excited about all of his projects and remember to follow him and his awesome wife on Twitter to discover everything that will be unfolding this summer. As I said, in the beginning, they are a huge part of what is making the LA food scene so exciting! Yes, I will soon be living in San Francisco but I am sure that whenever I come to visit I will make LudoBites and the LFC truck a top destination. Here are other reports on this meal from my dining companions that will keep you updated on all the new exciting LA food trends from Ludo to beyond:

Kevin Eats

food, je t’aime


Cookie Chomper

One Response to “The Last Night of LudoBites 4.0: It didn’t Bite, It Ruled”

  1. kevinEats June 11, 2010 at 12:36 pm #

    Thanks again for coming out Carina!

    BTW, the new site is lookin’ great. 😉

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